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How to read a serum ingredient list (and spot the good stuff)

Ingredient lists look like chemistry homework. Five rules make them easy to read.

5 min read · Updated September 27, 2026
Key takeaways
  • Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration, down to about 1%.
  • Below 1%, they can appear in any order.
  • INCI names are standardised, so 'copper tripeptide-1' is GHK-Cu.
  • Watch for 'fragrance' or 'parfum' if your skin is sensitive.

Rule 1: order matters (mostly)

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. Water is often first. Once you drop below roughly 1%, brands can list ingredients in any order, which is why a disclosed percentage (like 2% GHK-Cu) is more useful than position alone.

Rule 2: learn the INCI names

INCI is the standard naming system for cosmetic ingredients. A few useful translations:

  • Copper tripeptide-1 = GHK-Cu
  • Sodium hyaluronate = a form of hyaluronic acid
  • Tocopherol = vitamin E
  • Parfum = fragrance

Rule 3: find the actives

Actives are the ingredients doing the headline work: peptides, retinoids, acids, vitamin C. Check they're present at meaningful levels, and whether the brand tells you how much.

Rule 4: check for fragrance

Fragrance is one of the more common reasons for skin reactions. If your skin is sensitive, choose fragrance-free formulas. DOSE contains no added fragrance.

Rule 5: don't fear long names

Long chemical names aren't a red flag. Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate sounds scary but is a gentle peptide.

FAQ

Does the first ingredient matter most?

It's the most concentrated, but actives work at low percentages, so position alone doesn't tell you effectiveness.

What does INCI mean?

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, the standard naming system used on ingredient labels.

Is 'fragrance-free' the same as 'unscented'?

Not always. 'Unscented' products can contain masking fragrance. Check the list for 'fragrance' or 'parfum'.

This article is for general information only and isn't medical advice. DOSE is a cosmetic product and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Individual results vary.